...Pruning
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The Myth of Pruning
Many new gardeners become very nervous at the prospect of tackling their first pruning project. This anxiousness is fuelled by numerous questions.
Is it the right time to prune?
How much do I cut off?
Where do I make the cut?
Can I damage the plant?
How do I start?
What tools do I need for the job?
First advice is don’t panic. The worst you can do is to make a plant, shrub or tree that once looked beautiful….ugly. However, rest assured it will recover. With the right guidelines, the right tools, and a bit of faith you’ll gain confidence.
WHY PRUNE?
1. We prune to improve the overall health and appearance of the plant to create a more attractive specimen.
2. To control or direct new growth.
3. To prevent the spread of disease by removing dead or damaged branches.
4. To increase the number of fruit, flowers and foliage.
5. To improve air circulation and allow light into overgrown dense plants.
TOOLS FOR THE JOB
So, we know why we need to prune. Next what do we need to do the job. In the tools section of any Garden Centre there will be an array of products to choose from. Each product has a different use and purpose for different jobs.
Anvil Pruners
These have a blade that closes against an anvil on the lower jaw. The anvil is a softer metal than the blade. They use a splitting method to cut and prune branches or stems. This works similarly to how cutting with knives works. They are best for removing and pruning old wood. They tend to crush the wood.
Bybass Pruners
Bypass pruners work very much like a pair of scissors. They are the most common type of pruner used. They consist of two curved blades. The blade sweeps past the lower jaw when cutting. They result in a good clean cut. They perform well on green stems rather than old wood. They are used to prune shrubs, cut back perennials, flower stems and tidy up borders.
Loppers
Loppers are two handed versions of pruners for branches that are too thick for a pruner to cut through.
Ratchet Pruners and Loppers
All ratchet pruners and loppers, instead of one cutting motion, they conduct a cut in several different mechanical stages. This requires less strength, hence it is a tool that is helpful for those suffering with arthritis or weak hands. Ratchet pruners and loppers allow a person to work longer before tiring from fatigue.
Snippers
Garden Snippers are popular amongst a lot of gardeners. They are great for trimming and tidying up in the garden. They are ideal when a more delicate prune is required. The thin pointed blade gets into small spaces, proving invaluable when a light touch is needed.
Other Essential Tools For Pruning
Pruning Saws; for sawing through tougher thicker branches.
Telescopic Tree pruners: used to prune unreachable branches.
Hedging Shears: for clipping hedges and topiary.
Sharpening stones and steels: to keep tools in peak condition.
TIPS FOR PRUNING
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Pruning cuts are essentially wounds to the plant where disease could enter. Cut close to buds, always above, making the cut clean with no snags.
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Cut out dead, diseased or damaged wood from the base of the shrub to encourage new growth.
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After a summer’s vigorous growth, it is a good idea to give your shrubs a light prune in the Autumn to keep them in shape.
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Once deciduous shrubs lose their leaves, it is easy to see the plants overall shape and decide what needs to be cut back.
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All shrubs benefit from shortening any excessively long shoots, giving a better shape and more appealing look.
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Old shrubs can be rejuvenated by pruning back hard eg Ribes and Philadelphus to re-estabilish a new framework and encourage new growth.
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Prune flowering shrubs that bloom in spring straight after flowering.
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Prune summer flowering shrubs between jan to march before new growth starts.
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For climbers that flower on new growth prune in winter.
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For climbers that flower on last year’s growth ,prune after flowering.
PRUNING ROSES
Make a sloping cut, using a sharp pair of pruners, above an outward facing bud.
Shrub roses
Prune in mid spring, removing dead, diseased and dying branches. Prune back healthy stems by about a quarter.
Bush Roses
Prune in mid spring. Removing dead, diseased and dying branches . Prune most by half cutting to within 8cm (3in) of previous year’s growth.
Climbers
Prune in autumn after flowers start to fade. Prune side branches to two to three buds. Remove old congested branches to stimulate new growth.
